Joinery DVD
by Marc Adams

Joinery is defined as a means of connection, secured by three Basic Joints; 1) fastened by mechanical means (nail, screw, etc.), 2) glued wood-to-wood, with no mechanical bond, 3) any combination of the first two methods. Regardless of the method used, there must be good wood-to-wood contact; i.e., NO SLOP! The viewer's first exposure to a broad range of Terminology comes in the third chapter. Pretty straight-forward stuff here; e.g., to edge-joint is to true up and connect long ends of boards. Splines, or biscuits, or dowels can be inserted between two edges for additional strength. For increased reinforcement, a housed dado can be used, which is essentially a three-sided tongue-and-groove joint. A rabbet, or two-sided joint can also be used, which doesn't help so much during assembly but still trumps a plain butt-joint. Additional definitions, e.g., mortise and tenon, bridal joint, basic miters, etc. are also contemplated.

Marc claims there are "…over 600 ways to join wood…" in Selecting a Joint. Not sure if he's serious or facetious about that statement (his expression never changes!), but either way makes his point clear. He educates the viewer about the hydroscopic property of wood - that it tends to take on and lose H2O as the seasons change. As such, several factors must be considered for any given joint. Ask yourself these questions: Is the joint subject to any stress? Does grain oppose each other in mating surfaces? Will dimensional change adversely affect the joint (given it's size)? What is the surface condition of the grain being joined? Answer them and you're on your way to a solid connection.

Cutting a joint requires Tools. For what this chapter lacks in detail, it makes up for in scope, and his largesse is delivered machine-gun style. The best workshop will include a tablesaw, mitersaw, bandsaw, drillpress, router, marking gauges, scratch awl, tape and metal rules, squares, bench chisels (1/4" to 1"), dovetail saw (Marc prefers Japanese style), files, mallet, and a good workbench. What more could a guy (or gal) want?! After you buy all of this stuff, it's time for Tuning Up, which obviously refers to preparing tools for use. Marc likes the sandpaper method (remember scary sharp?), where a sheet is laid flat to accept an edge tool for sharpening, or lapping if-you-will. He likes to put a knife-edge on marking gauges, which helps persuade them to track properly as a line is struck. I was also surprised to hear he always removes the tooth set on American handsaws, reasoning they cut with much less effort when attacking wet wood.

Ever hear his Joinery Technique mantra? Layout is everything, and everything should have writing on it! He likes a 1:6 or 1:8 ratio for scribing dovetails, and likes to handcut them with dovetail saws and chisels. This is his approach for both through and blind dovetails. His preference is a mortise and tenoned three-way miter on compound joints (three contact points), and likes hip-joints for chairs, with a 3/8" rabbet and 5/8" round-over bit to machine the parts (he opines that rounded edges tend to cradle mating surfaces). He most often reaches for white or yellow synthetics as his Glue Choice, of which white glue can be used approximately 80% of the time. However, others should be considered as necessary. Hide, or animal glue is great for reversible joints. Seems counter-intuitive, but this is quite commonly used in acoustic instruments, since sooner or later a guitar, violin, cello, etc. must be repaired due to inherent stresses wrought by the strings. Urea-Formaldehyde and epoxies are great for exotic (oily) wood, or exterior grade stock subjected to the elements. Just be wary of off-gassing with U-F type products - it can be dangerous stuff. The video wraps up with Adams WoE's, or Words of Encouragement. Here he offers a few parting words, encouraging the viewer to tackle a project and enjoy the process. He takes advantage of the last few minutes to echo his belief that anyone can do this!